Article and photography by Judi Cohen (Traveling Judi)
In a world of cruising filled with towering ships and crowded ports, finding something truly rare feels almost mythical. But every so often, if you’re lucky, you stumble upon a unicorn. For me, that unicorn was Hebridean Princess, a ship unlike any other, small in size, but grand in charm, elegance, and soul. This tiny floating country house would be my home for 7 nights in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides Islands in a style I can only describe as, well, royal.
After all, Hebridean Princess was chartered, twice, by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. And by the end of my Outer Hebrides Isles Adventure, I would understand why.
Ahead of the cruise, I received a courier package containing a glossy Personal Cruise Journal & Travel Documents along with four luggage tags. This felt different from getting an email only.
An Arrival Like No Other
My journey began in Glasgow, where the cruise line arranged a coach transfer from the airport to the port of Oban. This turned into the most breathtaking transfer I’ve ever experienced. Our expert guide, Colin Wilson, narrated the entire 2.5-hour drive, pointing out famous Scottish lochs and castles, as we wound our way through lush green hills and valleys with awe-inspiring views, like a fairytale.
We reached the sheltered harbor of Oban, where the Hebridean Princess sat gleaming at the pier, her crew lined up to greet us. Called up by our names individually, a piper in full Highland dress, piped us onto the ship. The tone was set, and I knew this was not just any cruise!
Floating Royalty
With just 46 passengers, 2 short of the ship’s capacity, and 37 crew, Hebridean Princess feels less like a ship and more like an exclusive country manor house. Her Highness Queen Elizabeth II chartered Hebridean Princess for her 80th birthday and one other time for the royal family. There’s a signed portrait of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip at the reception desk, and the Royal Warrant hangs in the Lookout Lounge.
Formerly named MV Columba, she went into service as a Caledonian MacBrayne car ferry plying the Isle of Mull. In 1988 she was acquired by Hebridean Island Cruises, who transformed her into the gorgeous vessel she now is, with wood paneled lounges, a brick fireplace in the main lounge, and plush upholstery and drapery in the staterooms, We stayed in the Isle of Coll stateroom, with three large bow-facing windows, rich tartan upholstery, a full bathtub, an unexpected treat at sea, and a decanter of whisky that was replenished daily.
Small Ship, Big Heart
The ship’s intimate size fosters camaraderie. We dined each night at a large, hosted table in the Columba Room, with interesting guests. Two solo travelers at our table, Mary and Edward, were particularly delightful. Mary told us this was her twentieth voyage aboard Hebridean Princess, while Albert has been on over thirty times, yet they had never met before this cruise. Their enthusiasm was infectious, their stories about Hebridean Princess were endless.
Mary quickly became my personal “Scottish language liaison.” Each morning, she greeted me with my new Scottish word of the day, such as “dreich” (dreary), “wabbit” (under the weather), and “scunnered” (fed up or annoyed).
As we anchored silently in a sheltered loch just outside of Oban, under a setting sun, another of our table guests, Scott, brought out his bagpipes and performed on the top deck, backlit against the sky. As he piped, Auld Lang Syne, tears streamed down my face. What a way to “feel” Scotland!
A Taste of Scotland
Dining aboard Hebridean Princess is a celebration of local bounty: freshly baked breads, oysters, salmon, venison, hand-dived scallops and lamb. The Columba Restaurant, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, offers stunning views to accompany each meal. And with every meal freshly prepared to order, no request was too much. Menus changed daily at lunch and dinner, and it was always difficult choosing from the exceptional choices. Breakfast was a blend of fresh fruits, yogurts, honey still in the comb, smoked salmon, cream cheeses, blood pudding, streaky bacon, and hot breads. There was also the option of ordering eggs and other dishes a la carte.
Afternoon tea was served daily in the Tiree Lounge, often followed by a lecture. Pre-dinner cocktails included tasty canapés and endless chatter. The atmosphere was sophisticated but never stuffy. The ship’s small size creates a unique intimacy. Staff knew our names and drink preferences by the second day. We got to know all the guests onboard or during our shore excursions, and it all began to feel like a floating family.
Itinerary Highlights
Our itinerary, started and ended in Oban. While there was a planned itinerary, Captain Richard Heaton, would confirm any changes at our nightly briefings in the Tiree Lounge.
We arose on our second day to spend the morning cruising the Sound of Mull and Sound of Sleat towards Kyle of Lochalsh, where we berthed alongside. Busses took us to the picturesque Eilean Donan Castle. While photographs were unfortunately not permitted of the castle interior, we were told the castle is used for many movie sets. Upon returning to the ship, we found a printed formal invitation to join the Captain and the Ship’s Officers for champagne and Canapes in the Tiree lounge prior to a Gala Dinner in the Columba Restaurant. The invitation said, “Officers will wear Dress Uniform this evening” which was a signal for guests to wear formal dresses and tuxedos, suits or kilts.
Before arriving at Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, the following day, we cruised the coastline of the Isle of Skye and The Minch. At Stornoway we visited the Callanish Stones, that are older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids in Giza, and equally mysterious. Hebridean Princess remained alongside that night, and violinist Jane McMillan came aboard for what would be the only music of the cruise.
Remaining in Stornoway overnight we were able to visit the elegantly restored Victorian Lew’s Castle, once a World War II hospital. The ballroom, with its chandeliered ceiling and views over the harbor, evoked echoes of past grandeur. At the adjacent museum I learned of the island clearances, a tragic chapter in Scotland’s history, when men, women and children, were uprooted and forced to move to Nova Scotia and Cape Breton in Canada, and some American cities, to start new lives.
After lunch the ship sailed on to Tarbert on the Isle of Harris, while we toured the island. One of the highlights was a Harris Tweed weaving demonstration. One of the most desirable wool textiles in the world is produced in the Outer Hebrides on one island with two names, separated by a mountain range, the Islands of Lewis and Harris. The entire Harris Tweed production process must occur completely in the Outer Hebrides in accordance with the 1993 Harris Tweed Act. The weaver we met with explained that the fabric must be handwoven on a treadle loom (not machine operated) at a private home on the island, before being returned to the mill for processing.
From Lochboisdale, the next day we used tenders and a fast rigid inflatable boat to get to shore. From there coaches took us to Prince’s Bay on the Isle of Eriskay for leisurely walks on the spectacular white sand beaches with pristine turquoise water. During our lunch back onboard, we cruised to Castlebay on the Isle of Barra, where we toured Vatersay and visited beautiful beaches all afternoon.
On our last full day, we cruised the Sea of Hebrides towards the Isle of Coll. Guests could use the Hebridean Princess’s bicycles and helmets or walk the quiet rural island with sheep and horses and a mere 150 residents. The off and on rain showers created an ideal backdrop for our last day in the Scottish outer islands.
A Timeless Farewell
On the final night, the Captain’s Farewell Gala Dinner was a grand affair. Our tablemate, Scott piped in the captain and the “great chieftain o’ the puddin’ race” (the traditional haggis). Captain Richard then addressed the haggis with a Robbie Burns poem and pierced it with his dagger. We toasted with a wee dram of whisky, and enjoyed a serving of haggis, neeps and tatties, complete with a whisky reduction, before a main course of Roast Loin of Rannoch Moor Venison. Pure Scottish magic.
There were kilts, sparkling gowns, and tuxedoes. I looked around my table, at Mary and Edward, at the piper, the crew members, the landscape beyond the windows, and felt the enormity of what this little ship has given me.
In today’s fast-paced, over-connected world, Hebridean Princess offers something rare: a return to grace, to depth, to quiet wonder. As one of the Scottish guests said, it was “pure dead brilliant.”
Final Thoughts
If you’re seeking action-packed adventures or glitzy onboard shows, this isn’t your cruise. But if you long to feel Scotland, to explore its heart and palate, while connecting with its landscapes, people, and soul, then a cruise onboard Hebridean Princess is unmatched.
It’s no wonder Mary and Edward, and many other passengers on the ship keep coming back aboard this unicorn. Now I understand why. I will heed their words, “Haste ye back”. I will.