Article by Judi Cohen (Traveling Judi), photography by Judi and Uniworld
I always found destination focused river cruising on small ships fascinating and enjoyable, but it was during my recent Jewish Heritage-themed cruise on the Danube from Budapest to Nuremberg, that I began to understand how deeply enriching this form of travel could be. This wasn’t just a scenic European getaway; it was a journey through culture, community, and centuries of Jewish history on one of Europe’s most storied rivers. As a child of Holocaust survivors, I was interested in learning more about Jewish history in the countries we visited.
A Floating Boutique Hotel with Heart
Our ship, S.S. Beatrice, with a capacity of 148 guests, and thoughtfully designed public areas, felt intimate in the best possible way, like a floating luxury boutique hotel. With sleek design, panoramic windows, and warm, elegant interiors, it felt like home within minutes of boarding. The service was impeccable from start to finish. Every staff member greeted us by name within a day and ensured we were always comfortable. Whether it was pressing our clothes for dinner, or simply checking in with a smile, our butlers, Marcos and Marcos, attentiveness made a big impression.
The stateroom itself was spacious and sophisticated, with ample storage, luxurious bedding, and a Juliet balcony with sliding doors for a full view of castles, vineyards, small cities and other ships on the Danube.
Active travelers could use the well-equipped fitness room and start mornings with yoga on the sun deck. There’s something deeply calming about practicing sun salutations on an open deck with a cool morning breeze before temperatures begin to climb.
Fine Dining and Inclusive Luxury
All meals, shore excursions, and even wine with lunch and dinner were included. Mozart’s, the main dining room served elegant, regionally inspired cuisine with options for every diet. Whether it was goulash in Hungary, schnitzel in Austria, or delicate pastries in Germany, the food reflected the journey.
The atmosphere at meals was relaxed, with open seating, and we quickly made friends with guests from around the world.
Never Crowded
The ship never felt crowded. Because of the size and thoughtful layout, guests could find quiet corners to read, sip tea, or watch the river go by. Social spaces were lively but never noisy. The balance of programming, free time, and choice in excursions created a sense of calm luxury.
Jewish Heritage Highlights
About a third of the guests chose this sailing for the Jewish Heritage program, which included a blend of excursions, onboard enrichment, and cultural experiences. The rest were there to enjoy the ambiance of the ship and the Danube highlights. The atmosphere was warm and inclusive for everyone.
Uniworld offered included excursions each day. In Budapest, Vienna and Regensburg, there was one Jewish Heritage shore excursion, and another with a general cultural or historical theme. We never had to choose between exploring our roots and seeing the broader highlights of Central Europe. We could do both, since the tours were offered at different times of the day. Tomas, the cruise manager provided talks every evening in the lounge to explain the tour options in detail.
Budapest, Hungary
A half-day Jewish Heritage excursion began on the banks of the Danube River, not far from the Hungarian Parliament building, where sixty pairs of empty shoes, the type worn in the 1940’s, made of cast iron, are set into the concrete on the embankment. They are a memorial to the Hungarian Jews who, in the winter of 1944-1945, were shot on the banks of the Danube River by the members of the Arrow Cross Party. The memorial left me wondering who the men, women and children missing from the sculpture were.
Our tour continued at the Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe, and the second largest synagogue in the world. Before entering the former Jewish Ghetto, we explored the Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park behind the synagogue that was named after a Swedish diplomat who saved thousands of Jews during the Holocaust. We gathered around the Tree of Life memorial in the center of the park. Its metal leaves bear the names of Hungarian Holocaust victims as a reminder of the lives lost.
We also walked through the Jewish Quarter, strolling down Kazinczy Street to visit the Kazinczy Street Synagogue. The Jewish Quarter today is a vibrant neighborhood of cafés, kosher eateries, and cultural spaces. It was heartening to see this area’s renaissance, even as we honored the memories of those lost. We looked down as we walked to read the brass Stolpersteine in the cobblestone road inscribed with the names, and the birth and death dates of the victims of the extermination during the Holocaust.
Vienna, Austria
Beginning at the Judenplatz, the town square, that was the heart of the Jewish community in the Middle Ages, our guide took us to the Shoah Monument, a concrete library with the books turned inside out. Continuing our walk, we arrived at the Stadttempel, Vienna’s main temple and the only synagogue, dating back to 1826, to have survived the “Night of Broken Glass”, a pogrom against Jews throughout Nazi Germany, Austria and other areas in the region.
For a broader cultural experience, we enjoyed an evening of music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Johann Strauss, complete with professional dancers waltzing romantically in one of Vienna’s historic halls. This was part of the Uniworld Masterpiece Collection and one of the few excursions that came with an extra charge. It was worth every dollar.
Regensburg, Germany
Our visit to Regensburg, one of Germany’s best-preserved medieval cities and the oldest documented settlement of Jewish people in Germany, was unforgettable. A local guide led us on a walking tour through the medieval town of Regensburg, over the Iron Bridge and on to the magnificent Stone Bridge. We walked through the former Jewish Quarter (Neupfarrplatz) and to the Dani Karavan Monument memorializing the original Regensburg Synagogue, as well as seeing Oskar Schindler’s house. Then we made our way to the New Synagogue to learn about Jewish culture and history in Regensburg which flourished, suffered and was rebuilt over the centuries.
In the late afternoon, we were taken to a delightful concert in a Gothic cathedral to hear the Regensburger Domspatzen, “The Regensburg Cathedral Sparrows.” Domspatzen is the oldest boys’ choir in the world, dating back to the 10th century.
Onboard Community
We celebrated Shabbat (the Jewish Sabbath) on Friday evening at Max’s restaurant on Deck 3, which was transformed into a space filled with song, light, and community. There was even challah, candlesticks, kippahs, and local kosher wine, all provided by Uniworld. For me, that service symbolized what this cruise was about: connection to Jewish tradition and a shared sense of purpose.
This Danube sailing was more than a river cruise, it was a journey through time, memory, and identity. Whether you have Jewish heritage or simply an interest in history and culture, the Uniworld experience was first-class. Every element, from the luxurious comfort of the ship, the depth of the excursions, the insight of the enrichment program, and the warmth of the staff worked in harmony to create something profound.
River cruising often promises to take you to the heart of Europe. On this journey, I discovered it could also take you deep into the heart of your own story.