Pack your spirit of adventure for an extraordinary Arctic expedition like no other.
In mid-August 2023 I embarked Quark Expeditions Ultramarine in Iqaluit, Nunavut, for a High Arctic expedition in Canada.
I have been on many polar expedition vessels in the Arctic and Antarctic. However, this was my first time with Quark Expeditions, and it did not disappoint. Unlike some other expedition ships, the Ultramarine has all the bells and whistles. It includes two helicopters for flightseeing, a spa for wellness treatments, comfortable cabins, a diverse and knowledgeable expedition team, and adrenalin pumping Zodiac excursions.
Quark Expeditions specializes in the polar regions. They design their ships with ice-class ratings suitable for operating in places like Antarctica, Arctic Canada, Greenland, Svalbard, and even the North Pole. They operate three ice-class ships: Ocean Adventurer, Ultramarine, and World Explorer.
If you’ve never experienced a small ship expedition, prepare for itinerary changes and be ready to go with the flow.
Our entire itinerary changed because of wildfires in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories that prevented our charter flight from departing from Calgary. Instead of the 12-day “Canada’s Remote Arctic Nunavut featuring Ellesmere and Axel Heiberg Islands” itinerary, our departure date was delayed. Therefore, we did a 9-day itinerary renamed “Northwest Passage: A Journey along Baffin Island and Lancaster Sound”. The new itinerary turned out to be equally exciting and adventurous.
The only way to visit the High Arctic is by ship and the Ultramarine was the perfect vessel to enjoy the Arctic by sea, land, and air. I have been to the Arctic in Russia, Iceland, and Greenland. However, I always wanted to visit the Canadian Arctic and traverse the Northwest Passage.
Boarding and Disembarking
After our charter flight arrived in Iqaluit, we quickly boarded a yellow school bus. Later, we were transferred to the water for a brief 15-minute Zodiac ride to the ship.
Once we boarded, the crew welcomed us and showed us to our cabins. Later, they lead us to a mandatory safety briefing. My luggage was inside my cabin by the time the safety briefing ended.
On disembarkation in Resolute, Nunavut, Zodiacs were used to take us to the rocky shore. We were all transferred by bus to a social hall. We used it as our base in the small hamlet prior to going to the airport.
Quark Expedition Ultramarine Ship Design
The designers built the 199-guest Quark Expedition’s Ultramarine specifically for polar travel. It is equipped with a PC6 Ice Class and state-of-the-art stabilizers. Passengers can access all the decks from Deck 2 to Deck 7 via stairs and elevators. The designers created the Ambassadors Theater and the Balena Restaurant on Deck 5 with panoramic windows. On Deck 7, Bistro 487 features a large outdoor deck. The Panorama Lounge and Bar offers floor-to-ceiling windows, modern comfortable furniture, and a library, along with a large outdoor observation deck. Builders incorporated a second bridge into the lounge area for redundancy in case of a fire or malfunction in the Deck 6 Bridge.
Lectures and Entertainment on Ultramarine
The program included interesting and engaging speakers, in the Ambassadors main theatre and lounge, on topics including ornithology, geology, biology, wildlife, polar expedition history and culture. Nightly debriefings included highlights of the day’s sightings and activities with detailed information about key species and landforms. Evening entertainment, in the Observation Lounge with Library and Bar included singing and dancing with whimsical themes such as Sea Shanties and Name that Tune Bingo. I would have liked to have seen more lectures on the history of the Inuit and most notably their recent experience since 1953.
Expedition Team, Zodiacs, Kayaks and Helicopters and the Polar Plunge
The 42-member Expedition Team were experts in polar exploration history, geology, archaeology, biology, ornithology as well as helicopter pilots, kayak guides, and adventure staff. The expedition leader Jake demonstrated his passion and leadership every day as the itinerary evolved.
It was enriching to spend time with team members from all over the world. Especially interacting at lectures, on excursions and even during meals. Every night, team members kept us entertained in the Panorama Lounge. They had us dancing and participating in fun games and other shenanigans.
The team conducted top-notch helicopter operations with two experienced pilots.
Zodiac excursion in the Canadian High Arctic with Quark Expeditions on Ultramarine ©Judi Cohen
The Zodiac operators and crew assisting guests were very helpful and considerate. Offering a hand or a strong arm to make it possible for those with mobility challenges to be able to join Zodiac excursions. (In case you’re not familiar, a Zodiac is a rigid inflatable open-air boat. It is used to take around 10 passengers from the ship to rugged shorelines for hikes or to just for a slow cruise.) Some of the expedition team members were trained in the use of firearms and acted as bear guards on landings and in Zodiacs.
The Sea Kayaking program and paddle excursions were available at an extra charge.
The infamous polar plunge is considered a rite of passage for guests on polar expeditions. While I couldn’t muster the courage to jump into the icy Arctic waters, I had fun watching and snapping photos. About 25 brave souls jumped in and promptly climbed back onto the ship shivering.
Hotel Staff & Officers
The cabin stewards to all the staff on the ship could not have done more for guests and were always smiling and welcoming.
My Cabin
I was fortunate to have a Balcony Suite, which was impressive. The balcony had 2 chairs and a small side table. A generous-sized private bathroom with a shower was a nice touch. The closet space was well thought out and I had more space than I needed. There is a refrigerator in the cabin that I did not need to use.
Dining Options
Balena Restaurant, Ultramarine’s contemporary restaurant featured panoramic views from the front of the ship. The restaurant accommodates all guests and staff in one seating. They serced Breakfast and Lunch buffet style. With abundant selections of salads, fresh fruit, warm breads and pastries, eggs (any style) in the morning, and multiple international cuisine specials daily, soup, salads, and desserts at lunch. Dinner was served French style with several menu options. The dinner included wine and beer. I always reserved space for delicious fruit crumbles, ice cream, and pastry selections. The food was the best I have had on a polar expedition ship.
The Tundra Spa and Fitness Centre on Ultramarine
I treated myself to a 55-minute Greenlandic facial. It had natural products made by the Inuit in Greenland at the Tundra Spa. My skin was glowing afterwards. Massages and other services are also available in the spa along with a sauna with a sea view.
The fitness center adjacent to the spa offered thorough equipment, including free weights, cardiovascular machines, and a studio with views that would make anyone forget they were working out.
Highlights on my Arctic Expedition with Quark Expeditions
Spectacular Views from the Helicopters
Having the opportunity to helicopter, not once, but twice, enjoying the expansive view from the sky of the ice caps, ice flows, glaciers and winding fjords was spectacular.
While polar landscapes are spectacular from the sea, they’re even more so from the air. A view you can enjoy while seated in one of the two twin-engine helicopters stationed on the top deck of Ultramarine. A 15-minute flightseeing excursion was included. The weather cooperated and we fortunately were able to do two flightseeing excursions. One at Cambridge Bay over Devon Island, at no additional cost.
Taking off and landing on the top deck of the ship on a small helipad was done effortlessly by the experienced helicopter pilots.
Exhilarating Zodiac Excursions: Polar Bears, Icebergs and Glaciers
The combination of Zodiac cruises to safely view massive icebergs and wildlife, combined with Zodiac landings for hiking or beach combing made almost every day a physically challenging and enriching experience.
The Zodiac excursions along the coast of Baffin Island, Cumming Bay, Radstock Bay, Isabella Bay and Devon Island were exhilarating. You just can’t beat the WOW of seeing Polar Bears lumbering on the shore, majestic blue icebergs floating by effortlessly, and navigating crackling sea ice on the lookout for seals, walruses, and whales.
Exploration history: Sir John Franklin in the Northwest Passage on Beechey Island
Although there weren’t very many landings due to the weather, we eventually made it to Beechey Island. Here, Sir John Franklin’s team wintered in 1845 to 1846. During their ill-fated quest to find the Northwest Passage and claim it for the British Empire. The graves of three crewmen from the HMS Terror and the HMS Erebus who died that winter was emotionally overwhelming for many guests as our Historian, Ross, read a passage from the mother of one the young crewmen buried on Beechey Island.
Walking to the remains of Northumberland House, a supply depot and the emergency shelter built by the Belcher expedition in 1852, with Ross as our interpreter made the history of the Franklin expedition very real and raw. After many expeditions aimed at uncovering the mystery of the loss of lives and ships, researchers discovered one of the ships from the Franklin expedition in 2014, 170 years later.
A unique Inuit Fusion Dining Experience – Tundra to Table
Quark offered “Tundra to Table” a one-of-a-kind culinary experience at an additional cost. Using the culinary traditions of the Inuit in Greenland and Nunavut, our chefs Miki and Peter (experts in Greenlandic Inuit cuisine) meticulously prepared four courses of Inuit fusion cuisine. They explained the origins of the food and the techniques used for our meal. Following dinner, we all stayed for Inuit cultural storytelling with Miki and Peter. The entire experience was unique and culturally enriching. Tip: Sign up early : space is limited. Read my full story about Tundra to Table.
Exploring the isolated hamlet of Resolute
On our last day, we were fortunate that the sea ice cleared, and we had the opportunity to walk in the hamlet of Resolute with a population of just 140. Someone sighted polar bears in the area, and the RCMP kept watch in case any came too close to the center. When they asked us not to wander outside the hamlet, it didn’t take much convincing.
There were Polar Bear skins drying and animal skulls on display in front of the modest homes Inuit children played on the dusty pathways and gravel roads. I found a lovely Inuit blue crochet Pang-style wool hat in the Coop store, while others purchased reindeer horn and soapstone Inuit carvings. As is one of my customs, I sent postcards to my children from the Resolute post office.
I tried to imagine living in 24-hour darkness for four months of the year in such a barren, cold and isolated community.
In Summary
By now you know I had an outstanding Arctic expedition with Quark Expeditions in Canada, despite the changes to the itinerary. I am already considering other polar destinations like Svalbard, East Greenland, Antarctic, and Labrador. If reading my story has tweaked your adventurous spirit I hope to see you soon on a Quark Expedition Cruise. Need help choosing between an Arctic and Antarctic expedition cruise, read my article here.
About Quark Expeditions: The global leader in polar adventures for more than 30 years. The most passionate and seasoned team in the industry, taking explorers to the ends of the earth. Going where few ever dream and walking where few ever will. Delivering extraordinary experiences and enriching lives through travel, Quark Expeditions is a Travelopia specialist company.
An earlier version of my story appeared on the AllThingsCruise.